牛津经济研究院-二手服装对非洲和欧盟27国的社会经济影响+（英）-2024.10-156页_3mb

Summary of the Socio-Economic Impact of Second-Hand Clothes in Africa and the EU27+

Core Content

This report, commissioned by Humana People to People and Sympany+, provides a detailed analysis of the socio-economic and environmental impacts of the second-hand clothing (SHC) trade between the European Union and the United Kingdom (EU27+) and three selected African countries: Ghana, Kenya, and Mozambique. It explores the SHC value chain, trade dynamics, and the broader implications of this industry on employment, economic activity, and sustainability goals.

Main Points

1. The SHC Value Chain

• The SHC value chain includes collection, sorting, wholesale, and retail.
• In the Global North, SHC companies collect used textiles from individuals, often through municipal contracts and economic transactions.
• Sorting is a critical step where textiles are categorized based on their potential for reuse, recycling, or disposal, aligning with the EU's waste hierarchy.
• Reusable clothing is then either sold within the EU27+ or shipped to the Global South.
• In the Global South, wholesalers buy and sort the clothing, which is then distributed to both formal and informal retail sectors.

2. SHC Trade Between the EU27+ and Africa

• In 2023, the EU27+ exported 2.2 million tonnes of SHC valued at $2.2 billion.
• Direct imports from the EU27+ to Ghana, Kenya, and Mozambique accounted for 47%, 13%, and 18% of their SHC imports, respectively.
• The volume and value of SHC imports from the EU27+ have increased in Ghana, while they have decreased in Kenya and Mozambique.
• The decline in direct imports in Kenya and Mozambique is offset by a rise in imports from other regions like China, Pakistan, the US, and the UAE.
• SHC trade has prompted policy changes in African countries to protect local textile industries, but these measures have not significantly boosted domestic manufacturing due to the affordability of second-hand goods.

3. Socioeconomic Impact

• In the EU27+: The SHC industry contributed €3.0 billion to GDP in 2023, with €700 million from profits and €2.3 billion from employee compensation.
• The retail sector accounted for 62% of the GVA, while sorting and collection each contributed 19%.
• The industry supported approximately 110,000 direct jobs and an estimated 40,000 indirect and induced jobs, totaling around 150,000 jobs in 2023.
• The average gross income of SHC employees was 12% higher than the national minimum wage.
• The SHC industry supports job opportunities in less economically developed regions of the EU, such as Bulgaria, Romania, and Poland.
• The industry is characterized by a high proportion of female workers (79%) and a relatively modest educational requirement for employment.

4. In Africa

• Ghana: SHC imports from the EU27+ contributed $35 million to GDP, with 71% of this coming from employee wages. It supported 14,000 direct formal jobs and 43,000 informal jobs.
• Kenya: SHC imports from the EU27+ contributed $9.2 million to GDP and supported 3,600 formal jobs, with 68,000 informal jobs also created.
• Mozambique: SHC imports from the EU27+ contributed $2.7 million to GDP, with 1,000 direct formal jobs and 15,000 informal jobs.
• The total economic contribution across all three countries includes:
  • Ghana: $76 million in GVA and 22,000 formal jobs.
  • Kenya: $24 million in GVA and 6,300 formal jobs.
  • Mozambique: €11 million in GVA and 5,700 formal jobs.
• Tax revenues from SHC trade contributed between 0.1% and 0.4% of the total national tax revenue in these countries.
• The SHC industry in Africa is largely informal, with a significant portion of employment coming from informal traders, who often operate in markets and provide essential services like washing, repairing, and restyling.

5. Environmental Impact

• Reused textiles require only 0.01% of the water used in producing new clothing and save approximately 3 kg of CO₂ per item.
• Only 4% of SHC imports are considered waste, but due to the high volume, this still results in a non-negligible amount of environmental burden.
• The industry's environmental impact is exacerbated by inadequate waste management infrastructure in the Global South, which hampers proper disposal of textile waste.

6. Policy Space

• The SHC industry supports several EU policy objectives, including the European Green Deal, Circular Economy Action Plan (CEAP), and Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).
• It promotes circularity by reusing and recycling textiles, reducing waste and resource use.
• In the Global South, policies focus on effective waste management and sustainable development, with a particular emphasis on job creation.
• International policy goals, including the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), are also aligned with the SHC industry's role in promoting sustainability and social inclusion.

7. Policy Recommendations

• Policymakers should consider the socio-economic benefits of SHC trade when formulating policies.
• Businesses and not-for-profit organizations should be encouraged to engage in sustainable practices and support the circular economy.
• Investment in waste management infrastructure is crucial for mitigating the environmental impact of SHC trade in the Global South.

Key Information

• SHC Value Chain: Involves collection, sorting, wholesale, and retail, with a focus on reusing and recycling textiles.
• Trade Statistics: The EU27+ is a major exporter of SHC, with significant volumes and values, and a smaller share of direct imports to African countries.
• Economic Contribution: The SHC industry contributes substantially to GDP and employment in both the EU and African countries.
• Environmental Impact: While SHC is more sustainable than new clothing, the volume of imports leads to significant waste challenges.
• Policy Alignment: SHC supports both local and international sustainability goals, including the circular economy and the SDGs.

SWOT Analysis Highlights

• Strengths: Cost-effective for consumers, supports employment, and contributes to circular economy goals.
• Weaknesses: Environmental challenges due to waste management, informal labor practices, and potential negative impacts on local textile industries.
• Opportunities: Policy development, investment in recycling infrastructure, and integration into global sustainability frameworks.
• Threats: Regulatory changes, competition from cheap new clothing, and inadequate waste management systems.

Conclusion

The SHC industry plays a significant role in reducing environmental impact, creating jobs, and supporting economic development in both the EU27+ and selected African countries. While it contributes positively to circular economy and sustainability goals, challenges remain in terms of waste management and the impact on local industries. The industry's informal nature in Africa highlights the need for better regulation and support to ensure long-term sustainability and equitable economic growth.