2007年-世界发展银行全球_Vertical_and_Regional_Integration_to_Promote_African_Textiles_and_Clothing_Exports___A_Close_Knit_Family__139页_816kb

报告摘要

Summary of Report No. 39994 - AFR: Vertical and Regional Integration to Promote African Textiles and Clothing Exports

Core Content

This report examines the role of vertical and regional integration in enhancing the competitiveness of African textiles and clothing (T&C) exports, particularly in the context of global trade liberalization and regional preferential agreements such as the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). It highlights the structural challenges and opportunities for African countries to move beyond their current reliance on third-country fabrics and build sustainable, competitive T&C industries.

Main Points and Key Information

1. Global Trade Context

WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) expired on January 1, 2005, ending the quota system but leaving high tariffs in place.
The ATC and its predecessor, the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA), shaped the global T&C trade by favoring certain developing countries over others, particularly in East and South Asia.
China is now the world's largest exporter of T&C, with a growing market share in both textiles and clothing.
The US and EU have imposed safeguards on Chinese T&C imports until 2008, which may provide a temporary window for African producers to integrate into global supply chains.

2. Preferential Trade Agreements

The report identifies four key preferential programs for African T&C exports:
- EU Generalised System of Preferences (GSP)
- EU Everything but Arms (EBA)
- US GSP
- AGOA (African Growth and Opportunity Act)
AGOA is the most generous and flexible program, offering duty-free access to the US market for a wide range of T&C products and allowing the use of third-country fabric (TCF).
Only 37 out of 48 Sub-Saharan African countries are AGOA-eligible.
Lesotho, Kenya, Madagascar, Mauritius, and South Africa are the main beneficiaries of AGOA, accounting for over 95% of T&C exports to the US since 2000.

3. Trade Patterns

China dominates global T&C exports, with a significant share of both textiles and clothing.
AGOA countries are net importers of textiles and clothing, but they play a crucial role in the US market, particularly in the clothing sector.
US imports of clothing have grown at a slower rate than textiles, with a focus on low-cost, high-volume products from China and other Asian countries.
EU imports of T&C are more fragmented, with a significant shift from intra-EU trade to imports from lower-cost suppliers like Turkey and China.

4. Impact of AGOA

AGOA has led to a threefold increase in apparel exports from eligible countries to the US.
However, export volumes have declined since the expiration of the ATC, as the TCF derogation is set to expire in 2013.
Relative prices of T&C exports from AGOA countries have increased, suggesting a move toward higher-quality products.
AGOA has not created strong T&C industries in most African countries, as they remain heavily dependent on the preferences and do not have the capacity to compete in other markets like the EU.

5. Challenges to Integration

High tariffs in developed countries continue to distort the global T&C market.
Rules of origin (ROO) in EU and US preference programs limit the ability of African producers to source inputs regionally.
Infrastructure weaknesses and high production costs (including electricity, water, and transport) hinder competitiveness.
Lead times and quality requirements from global retailers pose significant challenges to African producers.
Intra-AGOA trade is limited, and most countries still rely on third-country inputs for fabric and yarn.

6. Policy Recommendations

African countries should implement economy-wide reforms to improve infrastructure, regulatory efficiency, and access to services like electricity, water, and transport.
Tariff reductions and flexible ROO should be reviewed to ensure that African producers can access the most cost-effective inputs.
Pro-active export and investment promotion policies are needed to overcome informational barriers and attract foreign investment.
Industrialized countries (especially the EU and US) should support African competitiveness through aid for trade and non-restrictive ROO.
Regional integration should be encouraged to build local supply chains and reduce dependency on third-country inputs.

Conclusion

The future of African T&C exports is uncertain due to increased competition from China and the phase-out of TCF derogation under AGOA.
Vertical and regional integration is critical for African countries to enhance their competitiveness and reduce reliance on external inputs.
While AGOA has provided a significant boost to some countries, it has not led to the development of robust, diversified T&C industries across the continent.
A combination of infrastructure development, policy reform, and regional cooperation is essential for long-term success in the global T&C market.

Key Tables and Figures

Table 1: Lists AGOA-eligible countries.
Table 2: Shows potential regional supply chain flows.
Table 3: Provides wage costs in the T&C sector.
Table 4: Lists electricity costs.
Table 5: Lists freight costs.
Table 6: Lists water and telecommunications costs.
Table 7: Shows number of workers and firms by product in Lesotho.
Table 8: Shows the impact of AGOA on clothing exports from Kenya's EPZ.
Table 9: Details the phase-out of quotas under ATC.
Figure 1: Apparel exports to the US (in millions of dollars).
Figure 2: Relative prices of apparel exports.
Figure 3: Relative prices of exports (weighted by US import value).
Figure 4: Market shares of apparel exporters to the US.
Figure 5: Average relative prices.
Figure 6: Market shares of T&C exports.
Figure 7: Market share of the China region in export categories.
Figure 8: Market share of quota countries in export categories.

Annexes

Annex 1–3: Details the WTO ATC, GSP, and EBA.
Annex 4–28: Includes trade data and cost analyses for various African countries.
Annex 29–38: Provides data on cotton production, trade, and costs in the region.

Experts and Support

The report was prepared by Ian Gillson and Caglar Ozden, with support from several experts and researchers in Kenya, Lesotho, Madagascar, Mauritius, South Africa, and Zambia.
Field interviews with textile and clothing firms were conducted to gather insights.
Joop de Voest provided support in identifying firms for interviews.

Final Notes

The report emphasizes the need for strategic integration and sustainable development of the T&C sector in Africa.
It calls for a balanced approach between preferential access and market-driven reforms to ensure long-term competitiveness.

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